I find that time moves differently on trips like this. So much happens in such a short time that a few days can seem much longer than the weeks that preceded your departure. I guess I should start at the beginning. The flights (thankfully) were uneventful. Arrival at Ghengis Khan airport was uncomplicated, although the facilities were almost laughably simple. The immigration processing area wasn't much more than a few desks lit by harsh, old-style fluorescents (ubiquitous here). I was met at baggage claim by a rep. from Projects Abroad (the company that set up my internship). I would see quite a bit of him over the next few days, as he showed me around the city a bit (though I can't come close to spelling his name so I won't try here). He's quite a nice guy, but has the sometimes amusing, sometimes irritating habit of, let's say, over-narrating our sightseeing. ("in a few minutes I'll show you the industrial district." "we're almost at the industrial district." "here is the industrial district, all the industry is here", and so on). I got to my accommodations in a state of sheer exhaustion at around midnight. I'd been up for about 24 hours so after a quick dinner (which I had no interest in, but ate in a pique of sheer Canadian politeness) I collapsed onto my new bed.
The next day brought an introduction session at the Projects Abroad offices. I was 'inducted' (their, somewhat puzzling, word choice) with five other volunteers working on various projects of their own. The 'induction' took most of the day, and was mostly comprised of a pretty facile 'culture clash in the workplace' kind of training. It did give me the chance to meet a few other volunteers though, which proved fortuitous. I've kept in touch with two of them: an Aussi and an American; (both women, the male/female ratio among volunteers is about 1:5) and the three of us have plans to see a bit of the countryside this weekend (more on that as it develops!).
We also toured the area a bit and bought local cell-phones, which is about as interesting as this paragraph is long.
After the 'induction' we were shuttled back to our accommodations by our various supervisors. I bridled a bit at the coddling, as I would have preferred to stay in the city center for longer, though it would turn out I needed a guide more than most (foreshadowing!).
I have to this point avoided talking much about my accommodations. I'm not quite sure where to begin. The situation, while perfectly ah safe, has proven... interesting. When I arrived on my first night, I was greeted by the son of the woman who owns the apartment, a 28 year old man, and his wife. The wife spoke no english and I only had a brief chat with the husband before heading off to bed.
So now I've arrived back after my volunteering hall of fame induction ceremony. The husband (heretofore now referred to as 'my host') is playing video games on his computer with one of his friends. Pretty normal scene, I ask him about the game a bit then head to my room. Later he asks me if I want a beer, which of course I do. He says that's great, he's just going to call his friend to pick him up so he can go get some, he'll be back in no time! Over the next 2 hours I fight off jet-lag and stay awake so as not to offend my new host. He finally returns with a couple of beers and a friend, an amiable Ultimate Fighting Championship fan who speaks just enough english to hold down a conversation. The beers are cracked and before long I'm starting to feel good about my new accommodations, as we crack jokes and show each other youtube videos. At one point the host casually mentions that his wife has gone to stay with her mother in the countryside for awhile. I'd just been informed during my induction that summering in the country was very common for Ulaanbataar residents, so I didn't think too much of this.
Suddenly the host gets a phone call and after an (obviously) incomprehensible conversation, says we should hide the beer because his mother is coming over. Which, huh, ok. So we do, and she does, although at first its not clear why, as she just has a short conversation with her son and then putters around the house a bit. Finally there's a knock at the door, the host goes to answer it. Well, here's where things go from strange to surreal. I can't see who's at the door, but I know its a woman because she and the host are screaming at each other in Mongolian just outside the apartments front door. This goes on for the better part of an hour, while I'm sitting in the living room with the mother (who speaks no english). I cannot fully impart the awkwardness of this situation with words. I have tried and I simply cannot. Finally I get up, walk to my bedroom, and close the door. There really didn't seem to be anything else to do. Hours later I got up to go to the bathroom and found the host, his mother, and yet another friend sitting together quietly on the couch.
That's when he told me that he and his wife had just broken up.
Yup, that happened.
What did I do? What could I do? I said I was sorry. Then I went to the bathroom.
...and that was my first day in Mongolia.
The next day was even more eventful, but for that tale, and to learn how I feel about my internship (spoiler: I love it) you'll have to check back again in a day or so, as I'm too tired to go on.
Cheers all, thanks for reading.
Tom
Confidential to Mum: As I write this I am safe, comfortable, and happy, and have every expectation of staying that way, so don't worry.
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